This is a video for my honors public speaking class. Special thanks to my mom for singing and dancing with the parrot, Jeli for using hand gestures, and Doug for the amazing editing.
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Watch more How to Train Your Parrot videos: http://www.howcast.com/videos/512651-How-to-Potty-Train-Your-Parrot-Parrot-Training
Okay. Now, when it comes to potty training your parrot, the thing you need to realize is that birds are wild animals. They’re going to poop every 15 to 30 minutes, depending on the species. So, the first thing you got to do is get out of your mind that you’re going to have a perfect potty train that’ll never poop on anything. Because no matter how good of a job you do, accidents will still happen.
So, stock up on good cleaning supplies: a wetvac, a mop, anything you can use to clean your parrots nest is good. The less of a big deal you make about the parrot making a mess, the less you’re going to encourage any of that type of behavior.
Another strategy is to keep the parrot on parrot-approved places, like this tree right here. The bottom is made to be easy to clean. So, if the parrots spent a lot of their time on parrot places instead of on human furniture, you’re less likely to have a mess throughout your house. Part of the strategy for keeping your parent on parrot-approved places is to do a lot of training, like the tricks we’ve been going over.
If you teach your parrots tricks on their training arches and trees, they’re more familiar with spending time on those places and their more likely to go over to them when they’re out and about. Now, when it comes to actually the potty training process, you can’t really do it the same way that you teach normal tricks such as clicking and giving a treat. That’s known to make parrots hold it in for too long and that can actually hurt their digestive system.
So, instead, it’s important to encourage the parrot to poop on it’s designated places but not mandate it. So, the strategy is to realize how long between poops that your bird goes. If you realize that you have a small bird and it goes every five minutes, that’s going to be the number you go for. The bigger bird might be half an hour. But these guys, maybe about 15 minutes.
So, what Im going to do, when I want to just spend time with my bird, I want to have him on my shoulder, on me, I will hold them and make sure that I’m not spending more than the allotted time between when they go to do their business. So, I might pick up the bird and hold it for ten minutes. Knowing that they’re going to poop in 15. Play with them, do whatever I want to do with my pet.
Then, I’m going to go and put them back down on their stand after ten minutes elapses. Now, I’m going to wait five minutes until they finally take their poop, whatever that comes out to. And as soon as they do, I’m going to make a big deal. Be like “Wow, that was very good! That’s great!” And I’ll come back over and pick up the bird and spend more time with it again.
And then ten minutes goes by. I feel like a next poop is due. Before it can happen, I’ll put her back down on the perch and wait until she does it. After you do this for a couple weeks or months, your parrot will catch on that the sooner they do their business when they’re put down, the sooner you’ll pick them up and keep spending time with them.
So, they learn to naturally do more of they’re business around their perches instead of on you or on unapproved human furniture areas. If your parrot wings aren’t clip and they’re flighted, they can even learn to fly back to they’re stand when they need to go, which is really convenient if you lose track of timing. If they’re familiar and accustomed to pooping on their stand, they’ll fly over when they need to go.
The last thing you can do to encourage your parrot do it’s business on it’s poopy perch is when you take it out first thing in the morning, put it down on it’s perch and wait until it’s goes. Most parrots hold it in at night and they have to go really bad in the morning and they try to avoid going in their cages.
So, as soon as you take them out, put them right down on their poopy perch and let them go. And after they’re done, you can pick them up and do your normal routine with them. This way, they learn to go to that designated place and to hold it in until you put them down and it’s time to do it. So, that’s some tips for you about potty training your parrot.
Watch more How to Train Your Parrot videos: http://www.howcast.com/videos/512656-How-to-Teach-Your-Parrot-to-Nod-Yes-Parrot-Training
Learn how to train your parrot to step up from Parrot Wizard Michael Sazhin in this Howcast video.
So, we already learned about the requisites of the clicker training, the treats, and the target stick. Now, it’s a matter of putting those altogether to have the parrot step up onto our hand.
So, go ahead and hold your hand up in front of the bird at a reasonable distance, a little further, so you’re going to start at a distance where the bird cannot bite you. You’re going to bring up your target stick and show it in front. You’re going to advance the two together with the tip pointing toward the bird, and you’re going to bring them all closer together. And keep bringing it closer, and have the target stick in front of him so he’s reaching toward it. And click and give him a treat, because he did the right thing right now. We can give him that sunflower seed. That’s good.
So, we’re going to first overcome the shyness a little bit to get the bird accustomed to new people, and then once we can get past that, then he’ll follow the target stick onto the hand to get the treat. So, go ahead and hold your hand in front of the bird, and bring that target stick behind. Bring your hand higher, because the bird only step up, not down, bring it closer. Bring your hand closer, and show him the target stick so he can just reach and he has to get on your hand to get it. Very good.
Now you can give him that treat. That’s good. He can step off your hand. We’re going to try that again. So, just remember you want him to be aiming for the tip of the stick, and you want to have your treat ready so that as soon as he steps on your hand, you can click and give him that treat without much delay. He’s not a bitey bird, but if you had a vicious bird that’s not used to stepping on hands yet, you want to get that beak focused. Focus on the target stick first, and then focus on the treats so that he never bites your skin in the process.
So, let’s try that again. Now remember, the way I want you to do it is to approach not from below, not from above, I want you to have the target stick in front, and your hand, and travel together so they’re at the same distance, he has to get on that hand to touch the stick. So, it’s like this stick is glued to the hand, but just at a distance, that he has to be on your hand to reach the stick.
So, give that a try. That’s great. Just back a little more on the stick so he has to step on your hand. Just keep bringing your hand closer and show him the target stick. Truman, target. Truman, target.
Now, what you’re going to do is you’re going to wait. You don’t chase him with your hand because you don’t want to set up any kind of fear. You don’t want him to want to get away from your hand. So, take everything away and we’re going to try it again.
He’s got to want to come on your hand. Alright. So, go ahead and approach everything at the same time again. Truman, you’re going to target, okay? So, go ahead and bring everything in gently. That’s very good. Just keep bringing in closer and closer. Good. There we go. Good bird. Very good.
Alright. I want you to try one more time. This time we’re going to have the bird on your hand. We’re going to take your hand a little bit away from the perch so he can stay on your hand. Okay. So, go ahead and bring your hands in, same time together, very good. Just keep coming closer until he steps up. That’s good, and just keep coming closer.
Hold your stick a little further back so he has to get on your hand to do it, that’s good, and now take your hand up and away a little bit so he can stay on your hand, and give him that treat. Very good. And that’s how to teach a parrot to step up on our hands for the first time, or to teach your parrot to step up on strangers’ hands if you want to direct a stranger to be able to pick up your bird as well.
Watch more How to Train Your Parrot videos: http://www.howcast.com/videos/512646-How-to-Clicker-Train-Your-Parrot-Parrot-Training
Learn how to target train your parrot from Parrot Wizard Michael Sazhin in this Howcast video.
Target training your parrot is one of the most useful skills you can teach to your bird. What you simply use is a target stick. This happens to be a chopstick, but you can just as well use a wooden dowel. Avoid using pens and things like that, because it may be toxic. Also, using your finger is not the best idea because the bird ends up touching it. You don’t want to necessarily teach your bird to bite your finger. So, a target stick is the best method to use.
Then, I’m going to use my clicker, which makes a clicking sound. I’m going to click whenever the bird touches the target stick and give it a reward. At first, when you’re starting to teach your bird a target, it doesn’t know what a stick is. Luckily, most parrots touch anything you put in front of their beak. When you put that target stick in front of their beak, they may just naturally touch it or play it. Right as they touch it, you’re going to click your clicker and give it a treat to teach it that touching the target stick is what you want it to do.
If your parrot is scared of the target stick, or running away, you can just patiently leave the target stick in front of the bird and wait for the bird to come toward the stick. Even if the bird just inadvertently by accident turns to face the stick or walks in that direction without touching it, if it’s moving towards the stick, that’s progress. Click and give a treat.
Eventually, you’re going to be able to direct your parrot with the target stick and have it turn its head or take a step to touch it. Over time you’re going to be able to use that target stick to teach that parrot to step up and to do other tricks, like this.
Target. Good bird.
Since the parrot is focused on targeting to the stick, they don’t quite notice your hands there as much. They’re less likely to bite since their attention is captivated on the target. They’re forced to step on your hand and touch the stick.
The target stick not only teaches your bird to follow and touch, it also teaches your parrot how to learn. Since it’s such an easy behavior for your parrot to pick up, it’s a great trick to begin with.
Also, it’s useful for teaching additional tricks to parrots, such as turn around by having them follow the target stick.
Target. Good boy.
That’s how you target train your parrot.
Watch more How to Train Your Parrot videos: http://www.howcast.com/videos/512673-Get-Parrot-Comfortable-with-a-Harness-Parrot-Training
Learn how to teach your parrot to fly from Parrot Wizard Michael Sazhin in this Howcast video.
This video’s about teaching your parrot to fly. And, believe it or not, many parrots don’t actually know how to fly because they’ve been clipped at some point in their lives. Sometimes when you get a parrot as a baby, it has very little flying experience. But, at that point, even in the wild, parrots have to learn to fly; it’s not instinctive to them.
So, parrots that have never had the chance to fly before, when their feathers regrow and they’re no longer clipped, they actually need to learn how to fly around. So, I have developed this two-perch training technique with two of the Parrot Wizard training perches and you can use that to teach your reluctant parrot how to fly.
So, we’ll start by targeting the bird form perch to perch. Good. Perch wood target. Now, this is an easy step in terms. I’m going to just spread that distance a little bit and make him work a little harder at stepping across the gap. That’s good. Target. Good boy. Target.
Now, spread the gap just a little bit further. The goal is to make the gap just big enough that he has to take a big step or a hop to get across. That’s good. As your parrot learns how to start hopping the gap, he might fall and get a little bit unbalanced in the process. It’s going to make him throw his wings out and he’s going to have to actually learn how to fly a little bit across the short distance. So, I’m going to bring that back just a bit and show you how the big, big step works. Okay. Target.
So, you go from a big step to a little flight. Good. Then, you just keep practicing the process. Don’t forget that your parrot is actually learning to fly in this process. Also, your parrot is working it’s flight muscles. Your parrot’s muscles may be atrophied if it hasn’t flown a lot in the past. So, by doing these exercises your actually not only teaching it how to fly; you’re also exercising it to fly. Target. Good boy. Very good. Truman, target. Good boy. Target. Good job. Very good, Truman.
Now, the next step is teaching your parrot to fly to you, not just between stands. So, the beginning stands are good because they’re sturdy and reliable and your parrot can stay on them. But then you want to teach the bird to fly to you, that point you can get rid of the second stand and teach it to fly to your hand. At first, I’m going to use my other hand in front of the stand to trick it to keep doing what it was doing before, which is flying from stand to stand.
Instead, now I’m having it fly to my hand in the process. Truman, target. He’s doing it to my hand as he was doing it to the stand. We’re going to try that again. Target. That’s good. Very good, Truman. Good job. For the first few times, to teach the bird to go to your hand, you just have him fly from to stands to the palm of your hand and he learns to come to your hand.
Once he’s learned that, we can get rid of that second stand altogether and teach him to fly to your hand as the target. Target. Good boy. And now you can teach your bird how to fly back. Finally, you can take these skills to the very maximum and teach your bird to fly by command.
I like to call a parrot’s name since I have more than just one, so that each bird knows their call by name. So, only the bird that I call flies to me when I call their name. Truman. Good boy, Truman. Very good. Come get a perch. Good job. By teaching the command for it to fly to me, which is their name, then I save a perch for them to fly back. Truman. Good boy. That’s how you teach a parrot to fly.
Josh Cook is an Australian avian behaviorist and bird whisperer. In this video he shows you how to teach your bird to free fly.He demonstrates using his beautiful macaw called ‘Mango’.
Macaw,bird whisperer,teach your bird to free fly,birds, avian behaviorist , hand raising birds,bird bonding,
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RELEASING the solution to one of the biggest problems bird lovers face and one of the most annoying problems !. here is what you should do
Taming your parakeet is not difficult and it can take up lots of your time. If you wish to tame your parakeet you must know you are in for a commitment during and after the process of taming. A tamed parakeet will seek your attention and you will be required to spend time with it daily. Many owners do not realize how demanding such a small parrot can be. If you plan on working late hours, or traveling, it is recommended you keep two or more budgies and avoid taming. A tamed parakeet can easily develop psychological problems if you fail to meet its emotional demands. Most parakeets are monogamous, which means they mate for life. Because of this, they will wish to interact with you as must as possible.
To start the process, you need to let your parakeet settle into its new home. A nervous parakeet needs time to adjust and needs time to understand its surroundings. He also needs to locate its food and water dishes, reduce his anxiety, and feel secure and confident about his environment. This usually takes around two weeks. A good sign the budgie is feeling comfortable in its environment is how it acts. A nervous and unsure Budgerigar will sit frozen on its perch. Before the taming process can begin it is important you are able to see the parakeet feels secure about its environment. This means the parakeet will not flutter or show signs of intimidation while you are in its room (It will go about its business while you are present).
Placing the budgie in a busy room is ideal to start the taming process. Many times budgies are placed into quiet rooms upon their arrival, but if you look at the bigger picture this technique seems to be counterproductive. A budgie that has been separated will have to readjust to humans and this causes excessive stress. A busy room will help speed the taming process and will help the parakeet understand that humans are not predators. In a sense, you are conditioning him for human interaction.
Once the parakeet has learned to accept your presence and it is active around you, you can start to gently open the cage door and place your hand inside the cage. This needs to be done consistently and regularly throughout the day until the parakeet can handle your hand inside the cage. During this processes of taming, avoid eye contact and sudden movements. The parakeet may flutter around the cage but do not react. This exercise needs to be done until the parakeet shows no fear of your hand. It can take weeks or days. Just be consistent and practice doing this.
Once the parakeet can confidently deal the presence of your hand inside its cage, gently take your finger and try to make the parakeet step up on your finger. Most parakeets will jump and cling to the cage bars. Try to position your finger below the breast line and gently push up. It is important you not jerk your hand back during this stage. If you have a fear of getting bitten, then use a dowel. The parakeet needs to step up on your finger and needs to remain there for a while. Again, this needs to be practiced until the parakeet can do this without hesitation.
If your bird is stepping up on your finger inside its cage, then slowly try to coax him outside the cage while he is on your finger. Do not be surprised if the parakeet decides to quickly head for a perch or the cage bars. Just continue trying to coax him outside the cage. Once out, you can take the parakeet into a room that is not familiar, such as a small bathroom, While in this unfamiliar room, try giving your parakeet a treat. You might try step ups or just gently holding him on your finger while you recite nursery rhymes. During this process keep your voice soothing and mellow.
This needs to be done several times a day and within weeks your parakeet will start to come around. make sure to make it feel like everything going to be okay.- Personal Trainer hani
Look at this amazing video, how a parrot can learn to drink coffee with a teaspoon! Parrots are VERY smart pets, not only because parrots talk, but because they learn from watching what YOU do! I hope you enjoyed this video, and if you did, share and like it please. Thank you!
Visit http://how-to-train-a-parrot.blogspot.com/ and download 5 .PDF e-Books (A total of 295 pages) that will help you to train your parrot, deal with problems, tips from experts and other pet owners like you!
NOTE ; there are a few ignorant people who will tell you that potty training your parrot is a bad idea because he may hold it until he dies. This has never happened. The behavior of learning bowel control is a natural process that many animals, including parrots, humans and dogs practice normally under wild circumstances.Bird Tameness releases the secrets to potty train your bird!
. A parrot that is not potty trained will not make a good pet on a long-term basis. Anyone who owns a parrot is delinquent if they have not taken the few hours necessary to educate their pet, and no tame parrot is too old to learn.
There are only 3 easy steps:
1.Pay attention. The age and feeding habits of your pet will determine when it will need to have a bowel movement. Babies consuming formula will defecate as often as every 20 minutes around the clock. Older birds will vary from 30 minutes, to as long as eight or more hours. Watch your pet for a while and determine the frequency of bowel movements. Take into account the time of day and if your bird has eaten recently.
2.Leave your pet in the cage or on a perch and watch for a bowel movement. When this occurs, you should give a verbal praise and immediately remove the bird from the cage or perch, which is usually the greatest reward you can give a bird. This praise should be in the form of a word, which you will use to command the pet to defecate when you need him to.
Since you now have an idea of how long it will be before the next bowel movement, you can prevent an accident by putting the bird back into the cage or on the perch when one half of the expected time has passed.
3.Now you will wait for your pet to go potty and repeat step 2.
If you follow this method on a consistent basis, within 72 hours some birds will be trying to go potty every time he sees you enter the room. (Because he wants to get out of the cage.) Soon he may be trying to go again even if he has nothing to pass. Once the bird has a grasp on the concept, you may start using this command to encourage your pet to defecate on command under most any circumstance.
This training, so far, will not teach your pet to have the bowel control. He will not know to wait until you give the potty command. It will only teach him to go on command. Once your pet understands you want him to go potty on command you can begin working on teaching the concept of holding it until appropriate.
It is very important not to punish your bird for making a mistake until he totally understands the behavior you want him to perform. You will just confuse him and prolong the learning process. Always use positive reinforcement by praising the behavior you want to reinforce
For more great info visit http://theparrotuniversity.com/potty-training-your-bird-72-hours
The secret to -How to teach your bird to wave :
Prepare an area to train your parrot. It should be quiet and free from other distractions. Do this during a time of day when your parrot is interested in you and being out of the cage. Doing this during a feeding time, or late at night when they want to be asleep would be a bad time.
Get a long wooden object that your parrot will want to chew on. You can use a pen or pencil (just be careful and don’t let them destroy it or be injured by it) or a wooden chopstick, or a Popsicle stick. You’ll want to use an item that they don’t normally play with too much, but that they’re not afraid of and are interested in. If your parrot doesn’t show interest in the objects at first, play with them yourself. Don’t allow them to hold it, they’ll quickly decide they want it if you’re playing with it.
Allow the parrot to see and touch the object briefly. Hold it near them to make it especially attractive. Once they take it in their beak and want it, take it away (gently and kindly).Hold the object just out of their reach until they raise a foot (usually to take it with their foot). Once their foot is raised, even slightly, praise the parrot (Good bird!) and give them the object immediately. Repeat this several times until they clearly make the connection between raising the foot and the object.
Use the command you choose. However you will need to pick a phrase you don’t normally use with your parrot. “Hello” and “Hi” alone are not good choices, because you probably say this to your parrot already,or they hear you say it all the time on the telephone. If you really want to use “Hello” or “Hi”, change your tone and how you say it, so it’s different than normal. Like Heeeeeelllo! Or Hiiiiiii
Learn a physical command, make it very clear and distinct. You can use both a verbal and physical command, and simply wave your first finger, bending it up and down. Offer the stick and say the command or action before they raise their foot. Once they complete the trick (by raising their foot) praise them.
Be ready to lose the stick. Repeat the above, but do not give them the stick every time and do not offer the stick at all during the trick but keep it visible in your hand that you’re doing the physical command with (or if no physical command, then the hand you used before). Reduce the reward to only occasionally. But always give the verbal praise when they perform. You also want a clear and distinct foot raise. If they only raise it a little bit, ignore it at this time. You want the correct behavior and they’ll be testing how little they can do for the verbal praise.
Lose the stick.
Continue to practice the trick on occasion and repeat the above if they appear to forget the trick. You won’t need to start from scratch though, just use the stick again from step 7, and they should relearn it immediately. You only need to do this trick every week or so for them to remember and enjoy it.
Learn the best way for rewarding a parrot’s good behavior by saying “good” in the same tone and giving your parrot a treat every time, in this free pet care video clip about training parrots.
Expert: Elizabeth Cantu
Bio: Elizabeth Cantu has owned and been working with parrots since 1994. She has been active in captive parrot rescue and rehabilitation.
Filmmaker: julio costilla
Many of Smokey’s tricks are nothing more than natural behaviors that have been put on cue. Using the capturing method, we could take any otherwise natural behavior and place them under stimulus control. This is not limited to just bird training, capturing can be used to train dogs to shake, bark, and even potty on cue.